Calcium During Breeding

It is important to remember problems associated with calcium deficiency during the breeding season such as egg binding and soft shelled eggs which reflect inadequate supplementation with calcium in the weeks and months prior to breeding. A range of palatable calcium supplements such as Biocal should be provided ad lib and it is also a good idea to periodically add sugar free calcium liquids such as Calcivite Plus to soft food, soaked seed or the drinking water.

By Dr Colin Walker


Banish the Winter Blues!

No matter where you reside in Australia the ever-present danger of egg binding is never far away during the winter months. Perceived by many as the best time of year to breed some species you must then also be prepared to deal with egg binding if temperatures plummet down over night.
Our problems from a few years back were so severe that we consulted Dr Colin Walker at the Australian Pigeon Company about our dilemma. His suggestion was to add two of his products to our dry seed mixture and a multi-vitamin mix to our soaked/sprouted seed.

For the dry seed it was a teaspoon of Nutribloom to 3 kg of seed plus Polyseed Oil at the rate of 1ml/kilo of seed. This is fed over the winter months starting around April and we cease feeding around October – this may depend upon the weather in your neck of the woods though and you may decider to cease feeding earlier or later.

On the soaked/sprouted seed we sprinkled Golden Boost, a multi-vitamin powder, and then mixed in a small amount of Cod Liver and Wheatgerm Oil. As this seed is replaced daily there is little risk of any of the oils going rancid or becoming denatured in the direct sunlight. However, it is essential that this mix is replaced once or twice, depending upon conditions, per day.

We have followed this regime religiously for a number of years and are pleased with the results to date. We are aware that the products are designed for pigeons but have seen no deleterious effects from feeding any of these products.

 By Marcus Pollard

To Worm or Not to Worm?!

Have just been listening to one or other of the ‘radio vets’ extolling the virtues and necessity of worming your cat or dog every 3 months. As a firm believer in worming my finches in the same time frame I must concur with their sentiments. There are many schools of thought regarding checking your birds before worming them but I favour the whole flock treatment. Why? Ok, here goes. Collect your faecal sample for analysis and you risk missing a bird or three that may have worms thus skewing your results. Be on the safe side and treat as if they all have worms!

Remember:

Treat with a wormer that deals with both tape AND gizzard worms.

Repeat your worming 2 weeks after your initial treatment.

Mix your types of wormers so that you reduce the chance of worm resistance.

ALWAYS use the recommended dosage, NEVER use at a lower dose rate!

Over the years we have tried a few and rejected a few, so here are some brands for you to consider but ALWAYS check with other aviculturists or your avian vet before using. Good luck and worms away!!

Cydectin & Cydectin Plus – sheep & goat strength.

Avitrol Plus – direct to beak NOT in water.

Panacur 100.

Equimax Liquid Allwormer.

Ivomectin - sheep & goat strength.

That should get you there until something better comes along but remember that most ‘good’ wormers are NOT specifically designed for birds and just because the company label says that is a wormer for birds and that it works don’t believe everything you read – remember Hapavet, I sure do!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Check, check and recheck everything you decide to use and then give somebody like Dr. Colin Walker, Dr. Danny Brown or Dr. Bob Doneley a call and confirm, confirm confirm!

By Marcus Pollard